Rediscover Romance in Lisbon
By: Holly Kreider
November 19, 2024
Some call Lisbon the San Francisco of Europe – its golden bridge serving as a dramatic portal to an entrancing bay, the iconic yellow trams bedazzling a network of narrow streets, and the steep hills offering breathtaking views and a constant cardio workout. I would argue that these twin locales both evoke a feeling of romance. Love, beauty, intimacy, mystery, excitement. Witness these takeaways from my recent week in Lisbon.
Steeped in history.
The castles, cathedrals, and conquistadores of Lisbon create a sense of “remoteness from everyday life” as one definition of romance puts it. The architectural wonders, often perched on spectacular hilltops, conjure up larger-than-life and older-than-time emotions. Combine that with the BDE of Vasco da Gama and his conquering cohort in the 1400 and 1500s, and the thrill of discovery is undeniable. The flipside of course is raging Catholicism and unchecked colonialism. The everpresent bacalhau, or salted cod, that helped fuel the ships steering toward world domination, also left a decidedly unromantic taste in my mouth. That said, here are a few historic features that did knock my socks off:
The monastery in Belem for its sheer size, its grand corridors, and its vaulted perfection (maybe enhanced by the macho vibes of da Gama’s entombed remains next door). We grabbed a still-warm creamy Pastel de Nata at this famous nearby haunt for added luxury.
Pena Palace in Sintra for its ludicrous ascent by winding road and forested footpath, its colorful and muscular Moorish architecture, and its impossibly intricate gargoyles and tiles
The ever-present cobblestone streets or calçadas of Lisbon and surrounding cities. The posh patterns of old-town Cascais are especially charming. Remember to wear comfy shoes and always watch your step.
This little gem in Chiado, where the waitress nonchalantly sat us in an ancient water cistern to dine on octopus and black pork cheeks while being serenaded by Fado crooners. Heaven.
Overflowing with vinho.
What could be more romantic than wine? Nothing. I first knew I was in trouble when our budget airline, ironically named TAP, poured us a complimentary cupful with our lunch at 10:45am. Portuguese wine slants sweet and smooth, but so does a good romance, so just embrace it. Don’t be afraid to drink with gusto either, because the alcohol content tends to be low. The best part? Jugs and jars of the stuff will only set you back a handful of Euros. Yes, I’m a cheap date. We loved this simple harbor-side cafeteria in Lagos where I paired my lime-scented mackerel with red wine…because I’m a barbarian. And the chaotic local tasca or bistro Ze dos Cornos in Baixa, for a very large and slightly spritzy vinho verde or green wine that helped wash down a heaping plate of delicious spare ribs. If wine isn’t your cup of tea, so to speak, other spirits also overfloweth, including cerveja or beer; ginjinha, a delicious cherry liquor (i.e., liquid dessert); and of course the eponymous port of Porto (more liquid dessert).
Easy on the eyes.
The miradouros or viewpoints from Lisbon’s seven hilltops offer eye candy beyond compare. And we all know physical attraction matters. First, visualize viewpoints arrived at by adorable trams, anchored by cathedrals and plazas, and sprinkled with wine bars, street musicians, and other mood-inducing props. Then picture sweeping views of the ocean, the bridge, the rolling hills, the Spanish-tiled rooftops, and the looming cathedrals. Finally, bathe all this in a magical sunshiney luminosity, borne of Lisbon’s southern orientation and ocean-sea embrace, that has earned Lisbon its moniker, the City of Light. Here are four of the epic views we chased:
Miradouro da Graça, atop the tallest hill in all of Lisbon and arrived at by a steep thrill ride on Tram 28
The overlook at Cristo Rei, the giant jesus statue offering magnificent views of the bridge and old Lisbon across the bay. Well worth the small admission fee and the ferry ride, bus ride, rickety elevator, and 74 narrow steps it took to get there.
The undulating cliffs and caves of the Algarve region, a 3-hour drive south of Lisbon, where a hike and a dramatic boat ride delivered some of the most sumptuous shoals I have ever laid eyes on (not to mention a rescue on the high seas).
The restaurant at Azenhas do Mar, literally clinging to a steep rock cliff with a sheltered beach and ocean-filled piscina to feast your eyes on below. We enlisted this charming French couple and their renovated VW bus to take us there and to other spots en route to Sintra.
An exciting future?
I don’t know about you, but the best first dates leave me wanting more. I visited knowing that Portugal offers more than just a one-night stand – its Digital Nomad Visa, Golden Visa, and Passive Income Visa, for example, have lured many ex-pats into a steady relationship status with Lisbon, Porto, Madeira, and Algarve. If Madonna and Megan Markle took the plunge, then why not me? During my entire stay, my midnight musings (and internet research) imagined a home base in Lisbon as a remote worker, with weekend getaways to Barcelona, Marrakech, Malta, and more. Oh Lisbon, will you marry me?